NEW YORK (AP) — Americans have been having a love affair with avocados in recent years. Especially in guacamole.

According to the California Avocado Commission, some 81 million pounds of avocados are consumed in the U.S. during Cinco de Mayo, the annual celebration of Mexican American culture that falls on May 5.

But some guacamoles are disappointing — bland, or watery, or lacking in creaminess. So, what makes the difference between meh guacamole and great guacamole?

“The conversation has to begin with the avocados themselves,” says Julian Rodarte, a chef and co-owner of Beto and Son in Dallas, and a guacamole aficionado.

There are hundreds of varieties of avocados, though only a few are commonly available in the U.S. Rodarte says that Mexican Hass avocados (specifically from the Michaocan region of Mexico) are the best avocados for guac, with the highest oil content.

Ivy Stark, chef/owner of the restaurants Mexology and BKLYNwild in New York City, also recommends Hass avocados for guacamole. In general, Hass avocados, which can also come from California and other locales, are denser than the larger varieties, creamier and richer in flavor. Avocados with more water in the flesh will break down more quickly, especially when blended with the other ingredients.

To check the ripeness of the fruit (we all know avocado is a fruit, yes?), Rodarte suggests looking for two indicators. First, touch. Gently press the skin and “it will tell you right away if it’s soft.” Second, break off the little piece of stem at the top of the avocado and look at the little navel-like circle underneath. If it’s bright green, the avocado should be ripe. White is under-ripe, and brown is past its prime.

If you need to help your avocados ripen faster, place them in a brown bag or other container with a banana and let them sit for half a day to a day or two. The natural gases emitted by the banana will accelerate the ripening of the avocados.

As for seasonings, Rodarte says, “I eat guacamole for the flavor of the avocados,” so he recommends using a thoughtful, light hand. Fine sea salt is his preference, as it melts into the guac “without interrupting the creaminess with crunchy bits of salt.”

Consider serving guacamole in scooped-out avocado shells. They might be a little wobbly, but you can nestle the shells in a bed of tortilla chips for more stability.